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So, if you bought the RAM that I linked a while ago, it is DDR3 1333mhz
Your E55xx processor may have come from the factory with either DDR3 800mhz or DDR3 1066mhz.
The faster RAM combined with a larger pool to work with is probably allowing your CPU to get closer to 100% utilization during renders, and that all aluminum heatsink is having trouble keeping up.
Hmmmmm
"I visually inspected the fans and they all seem running when I pull the cover off."
Just so you know. Inside the back of your tower, right at the far left side of the HDD bracket there is a little black button sticing out. When you close up the case the side panel presses that in letting the computer know that it is sealed for proper air circulation. When the side panel is off it will run all of the fans at 100% regardless of the temperatures.
Good observation on the DDR memory times. I was wondering about that. I 'think' what I removed was 1066 and what I put in was 1333.
In the 'Just so you know category', what you refer to (different behavior door open vs closed) is a detail about which I had no clue whatsoever.
EDIT 8/7/2017: I THINK I MAY UNDERSTAND THE THERMAL PROBLEM WITH THE NEW RAM
In looking over the Intel specs comparing three processors, E5540, X5670, X5680 (Intel Comparison, below), I find that my existing processor, the E5540 handles a max ram mhz of 1066. It is not spec'd for 1333. I just put in DDR3 1333 and removed the DDR3 1066. Apparently that is a (soft?) no-no. My new ram is delivering information to the chip at a rate faster than the chip can process. It works and is supposedly backward cocmpatible, but may be throwing off more heat due to the bottleneck.
INTEL CHIP COMPARISON: X5670, E5540, X5670
http://ark.intel.com/compare/37111,37104,47916
JamesJab - Did you put in your processors yet, if so, how did it go?
Since I'm planning to put in a new heat sink, I've been looking at an Intel X5680 SLBV 3.33Ghz processor.
In for a penny.....
Seems to be the same socket as the Xeon E5540 in there. RAM Is 24 gb DDR3 1333. I know you said you were going to put two of these in your machine.
How did you decide upon your chip? I'm sort of deciding that most T7500s are the same and as long as the sockets match... With all the stuff insidde it's hard to look for Mobo data, and Dxdiag.exe didn't seem to give me what I wanted.
Geek Tested: 17 Thermal Pastes from PC Gamer
When looking to buy Arctic Silver I came across this handy PC gamer review for thermal goop types; It's five years old now but the players don't seem to have changed. The crew did a test on 17 differenct types and while Arctic Silver 5 is good and commonly used they felt that a product called Tuniq Tx-4 actually performed a bit better:
http://www.pcgamer.com/geek-tested-17-thermal-pastes-face-off/2/
I note that per Art3D's recommendation to me earllier they are using HW monitor to score the temperature results.
"Conclusion (PC GAMER January 2012)
On an idling overclocked processor or a stock-clocked CPU, the differences between thermal pastes is minimal—we saw a spread of less than 4C between the best and worst thermal pastes in our roundup. At high temperatures—and we should reiterate that we overclocked the processor to 3.9GHz and used a custom thermal-stress utility to put an enormous thermal load on the CPU—we saw a spread of over 12C. Margin of error is plus or minus 2C to allow for ambient air temperature, which ranged from 23.8C to 25.4C throughout the testing procedure.
Of the seventeen thermal pastes in this roundup, Tuniq’s TX-4 scored the highest. Its burn temperature was 3C cooler than Arctic Silver 5’s. Eleven pastes earn our Geek Tested & Approved badge: Tuniq TX-4 and TX-2, Shin-Etsu MicroSI X23-7783D, Prolimatek PK-1, Arctic Cooling MX-4 and MX-2, Noctual NT-H1, Xigmatek PTI-G4512, ZeroTherm ZT-100, Cooler Master ThermalFusion 400, and good old Arctic Silver 5. We’d give pride of place to Tuniq’s TX-2, Arctic Cooling’s MX-2, and Prolimatech’s PK-1, because they’re slightly cheaper than some of the other premiere thermal interface materials.
So does thermal paste matter? Yes—there’s a big difference between thermal pastes when running a CPU at full burn. There’s a big difference between a thermal interface material that’s good for overclocking and those that aren’t, but with eleven great thermal pastes to choose from, you can’t go wrong with one of them.
One final note: The true hero of this story is Arctic Silver’s ArctiClean two-step thermal remover & surface purifier . It’s nontoxic, smells like oranges, and cuts through the toughest thermal interface with ease. We’ve used it in the lab for years and it’s a lifesaver any time we need to remove thermal paste from a CPU or heatsink. We’ve yet to meet a thermal interface material it didn’t work on."
Yes, my CPUs came in today. As you can see from my updated signature block, they are installed already.
I picked the X5680 because of the price vs clock speed. Going up that one last step to a X5690 pretty much doubles the price on the CPU. And yes, you will need to get the replacement heatsink for this CPU because it is 130W.
The thermal paste that I'm using is Arctic Silver 5. (interesting note on that... It is from a radioshack thermal paste package sku - 040293641313)
And for CPU thermal monitoring, I just use MSI Afterburner. It pulls temperature data from all 24 threads individualy on my dual CPU setup.