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The slash is the division symbol. 1/1000 = 1 divided by 1000
As a decimal equivalent, 1/1000 of a second ( shutter speed) is 0.001 s, so you can type in either .001 or 1/1000
You can type a value in (.001) , or you can type a calculation (1/1000); both work. I often type in a value, and if it doesn't work, I try half that value by clicking on the number, and adding /2. Then do it again to try one quarter of the original value, etc.
You could type *2 to double any value. The * is for multiplying, right?
Hope this helps.
"D"
The shutter speed in the render settings is "parts of a second", so 125 parts of 1 second =1/125.
You simply give the full number of the fragment, like 1/1000, you enter 1000.
http://docs.daz3d.com/doku.php/public/software/dazstudio/4/referenceguide/interface/panes/render_settings/engine/nvidia_iray/tone_mapping/start
I put together a list of settings for f/stop, shutter speed as a starting point, you can find it here: http://www.daz3d.com/forums/viewreply/848529/
What effect does shutter speed create? Does this create a sort of motion blur? It would in the real world but maybe not in the Iray world. So what is this used for?
good question dkutzera I hope it is there for the future for when Motion Blur is possible in Iray.
I think it's just a 'brightness' control...
Shutter speed is technically how long the da era shutter is open mm affecting how much light reaches the f I lm. So "brightness control" is an apt description. Leaving the shutter open for longer will give you ore light to work with. Low light situations would require a longer shutter speed. I use anywhere from 1/16 to 1/60 for indoor lighting.
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Shutter Speed has two jobs, yes the main one is brightness but the other is motion blur, even if by accident. :)
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Lee,
Thank you for the info. I didn't want you to think I wasn't grateful by not responding, I just got busy. That's helpful info, but what I was looking for was what you type in, the equivalents if you will for things like 1/1000, 1/500 etc, what the numerical digital equivalents of those numbers would be, but never mind.......I didn't think you could type in the "/" (forward slash) and hadn't experimented with trying to the other day, which I should have. I see now you can. Problem solved. I remember a some of this stuff from back in the 80's when my father taught me the in's and outs of 35mm photography (I didn't always pay attention to well, or as much as I should have, but I'm glad to see it in IRay), but again, I see you can enter the forward slash in the parameter field, so problem solved. Thanks again though. :-)
No offense taken, and maybe it's my bad English skills, but...
You simply give the full number, leaving out the "1/" .
So, for 1/64, the number you type in the parameter field is simply "64".
It has no "digital equivalent", and you also don't use forward slashes or anything.
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Oh cool that is coming along nicely.
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Yeah but that is the thing, you are trying and that is the main point in all this learning. I used to spend months and months on one image and that put me in good stead. Mind you I am anal about detail. Personally I would like to see more beginners start with a scene like this and slowly do it over months, learning different aspects as they go. Too often I see new comers want instant results and when they don't they give up. I think it took me two years before I started to be happy with my results.
Ah... now I understand. In my mind, because it's fragments of second, it omitted the decimal point and zeros. :D (see, so it was my English after all! Sorry for that! :-))
Yes, that's correct. 1/60 would be 60.00
If you'd want some obscure values, like 1/60.25, then that would be 60.25 in the parameter field.
Amen on that one, Pete.
Remember when two years ago, in the Dreamlight Forum, you guided me through my very first render for a contest? (going by beemeekay there)
All that experimenting and frustration is a good thing, to understand the tool. Right now, I'm working on a German language FAQ for the 4.8 render settings, and it takes ages, because I want to understand what the slider do. With some, I've found out really fun things (like, how you can go psychedlic using negative numbers in saturation), others are still a mystery.
Sneaky (beemeekay). To be honest I can't remember. I remember you. I try to help so many the lines get blurred. Did I help well?
Frustration: That is one aspect I never suffered from, well not from a software point of view but I did with the artistic side and to a degree I still do.
Yes, that's correct. The format for shutter speed is 1/x seconds, where you only need to type in the value for x. This is actually a bit of a shortcut, and is commonly just understood in photography.
When I set my camera's shutter speed at 1/60 of a second, the display shows 60. It's trickier if you want the shutter to stay open for a longer time, like more than a whole second, say, for night photography.
If I want the shutter to stay open for 5 whole seconds, the display shows: 5"
You would get an image like below:
So, 1/x: where x = 5 means 1/5 of a second.
but 1/5" means 5 seconds. (This is Canon's format, anyway)
I'm not sure if DS has implemented anything like this yet. It will only be needed when motion blur is available.
Knowing nothing about photography other than which way the camera should point (I think!), I find the tonemapping settings a bit of a mystery.
From what I've read here on the forums and on photography websites I've tried to piece together a good set of values for a moderately lit indoor cargo bay (spaceship) scene:
Exposure Value: 8.88
Shutter Speed: 1/60
F/stop: 1.4
ISO: 400
Does anyone see anything glaringly off about these settings or have any advice they could give to tweak please?
Here is a cool video from Nvidia's website.
I'm not sure if DAZ Studio's Iray version has all of these capabilities, but the demo is very cool! There is no explanation of settings that are needed in DAZ Studio, just a demo of how it's supposed to work, and what final results can be achieved.
Scroll down the page to the demo.
http://www.nvidia-arc.com/products/iray/rendering.html
That Fstop might be a little wide open...
With an ISO that high and shutter speed that low, I might go more like 2.4-6 on the F/stop. But its going to depend on just how much light you consider moderately lit.
That Fstop might be a little wide open...
With an ISO that high and shutter speed that low, I might go more like 2.4-6 on the F/stop. But its going to depend on just how much light you consider moderately lit.
Thanks evilded777, that does actually confirm some other stuff I've been reading so sounds like good advice. I'll try that out today :)
Thanks evilded777, that does actually confirm some other stuff I've been reading so sounds like good advice. I'll try that out today :)
Also with an F stop that low your depth of field will be very tight. Closing the lens, a higher F stop number, increases the area in front of the camera that will be in focus i.e. depth of field or DOF. That will depend on where the cameras focus point is too. So if the camera is focused at infinity there might only be a narrow band in focus across the middle at F1.4, say thirty feet to forty feet, but from six feet to sixty feet at F6.8 and ten feet to one hundred feet at F22. With a higher F number you will have to increase the ISO but you will get a lot of noise affecting the image too if that is how Iray works.
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Depth_of_field
Thanks evilded777, that does actually confirm some other stuff I've been reading so sounds like good advice. I'll try that out today :)
Also with an F stop that low your depth of field will be very tight. Closing the lens, a higher F stop number, increases the area in front of the camera that will be in focus i.e. depth of field or DOF. That will depend on where the cameras focus point is too. So if the camera is focused at infinity there might only be a narrow band in focus across the middle at F1.4, say thirty feet to forty feet, but from six feet to sixty feet at F6.8 and ten feet to one hundred feet at F22. With a higher F number you will have to increase the ISO but you will get a lot of noise affecting the image too if that is how Iray works.
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Depth_of_field
Thanks for this - so much to learn about photography! The websites I'm researching on are giving me conflicting information, so I guess its not an exact science.
For indoor scenes one suggests:
Exposure Value: 10.97
Shutter Speed: 1/125
F/stop: 4
ISO: 100
...while another suggests:
Exposure Value: 13.91
Shutter Speed: 1/60
F/stop: 16
ISO: 100
The exposure value seems a bit too high for the second set, but as far as I can tell you can't alter EV and shutter speed independently in Iray. So I'm thinking the first set is probably better, otherwise I'll have to crank the lights up really high.
Edit: After reading through some photography forums what I've come to realise is that everyone thinks they know what the best settings are but no-one actually agrees on what those should be lol :)
OK, so after muchas reading and trial and error I've settled upon (in case anyone is in the same boat and interested):
Exposure Value: 12.25
Shutter Speed: 1/60
F/stop: 4.5
ISO: 400
That is because there is no fast track to the perfect exposure, what is right for one scene may not work with another scene.
This may help or add more confusion :-)
http://www.exposureguide.com/exposure.htm
For indoor work if you need everything in focus then a high aperture setting e.g F8/16/22, a slow shutter speed e.g. 1/60, 1/30, 1/4 etc. and a high ISO e.g. 1200, 1600, 3200 is needed. Change any one of the settings and it will change the image. The higher ISO giving the most noise, i.e. graininess. There is no way of knowing which combination will work until you try them and view the final result :-)
Hmmm, it strikes me then from the descriptions on that website that it would be better to keep the ISO as low as possible (close to 100) and just alter F/stop slightly, but mainly shutter speed, to get the light levels and exposure you'd want (in Iray, that is; not in real life).
As motion blur wouldn't be an issue when snapping an Iray shot, shutter speed could be used as your main method for manipulating exposure levels in a scene.
I also question the point of F/stop for Iray when we have DoF controls on the cameras. Is there really any need to adjust F/stop other than for light levels?
I don't use Iray so can't help you there but to set the DoF on the cameras in Studio you have to match the focal point and the F/stop to the focal length of the lens to get the area you want sharp whether it is all the scene or only a face with the rest out of focus.
On this image the near DoF plane is just in front of the two nearest figures so they are out of focus and the far DoF plane is on the other side of the car so everything after that is out of focus. The sharp area is between them starting at the lying man and past the car. The lens focal point was on the car and I had to adjust the F stop and move the focal point back and forwards until I had them where I wanted them.
Yeah, this is my point. Theres already an F/stop function included on the DS cameras, so I'm wondering why there needs to be an F/stop setting in the Iray tone mappings as well. It seems to serve no additional function other than to adjust light levels. Perhaps its just a feature of Iray that Nvidia included but it was made redundant by the existing feature in DS.